Mistakes Everyone Makes With Homemade Empanadas
With their flaky exterior and choice of tasty fillings, empanadas are up there with some of the best foods of all time. These little pastries make great snacks, light lunches, or even full dinners if you eat enough of them. But there are some mistakes everyone makes with homemade empanadas that can leave your attempts disappointing.
You might have your favorite spot to pick them up, but maybe your attempts to make them at home have fallen flat. Even following an authentic empanada recipe might not always give you the results you want because there are lots of small things that can go wrong. This can seem daunting, but once you get your head around it, you can learn how to make perfect empanadas every time.
We spoke to five empanada experts, including chefs and recipe developers, to learn some of the common pitfalls with these pastries. Interviewing those in the know helped us pinpoint the exact ways they go wrong so you can learn how to avoid these issues. Before you know it, you'll be the one everyone comes to for empanada advice.
Using warm ingredients
Making the dough is one of the major places people go wrong with empanadas. It's the thing that holds everything together and can make or break a recipe. One common mistake with empanada dough is using warm ingredients. While some baking recipes call for softened butter or other fats, it's important that you use cold ingredients straight from the fridge when making this kind of dough.
Marta Rivera Diaz — a classically trained chef and recipe developer at Sense and Edibility – stresses the importance of cold ingredients. "If your recipe calls for lard or shortening, throw it into the freezer while you measure out the other ingredients," she says. "Cold ingredients allow you more time to work with the dough without the risk of it becoming too gummy."
But even using cold butter isn't always enough. You have to keep your pace up too. "It's important to work quickly to keep the butter cold, as this helps create a flaky texture," explains chef Maricel Gentile of Maricel's Kitchen, who has so much experience with these pastries that she teaches empanada making classes. Keeping everything cold and not dawdling when you make your dough will leave you with the perfect flaky texture you're looking for.
Not kneading the dough enough
Since an empanada is like a freeform pie, you might assume that you don't want to knead the dough to stop the pastry from becoming tough. Some pastry recipes discourage you from handling the dough too much at all to prevent dry, tough pastry. However, this isn't the case with empanada dough.
According to Maricel Gentile, you should always knead the dough until it's smooth to encourage proper gluten development. You're not going to knead it for as long as you would bread dough, but don't just mix it until it comes together and leave it at that. It won't give you the results that you're looking for from an empanada. The texture will be off and the dough might crack.
"I knead the dough quite well in the mixer — with the dough hook — with the goal of developing the gluten quite well," says Milena Pagán, chef-owner of Puerto Rican-inspired dining venue Little Sister. "That way, the dough will stretch well to make folds and it will swell nicely in the oven, giving the empanadas a nice big belly." If in doubt as to how long to knead, follow a reliable empanada dough recipe.
Skipping the resting time for the dough
You're probably eager to get your empanadas into the oven and fryer and, ultimately, into your stomach. However, you shouldn't skip the resting time for the dough. It's tempting to do so to save time but it will ultimately lead to worse results. Even if your dough seems pliable and rollable right after mixing, it's still important to rest it.
According to chef Richard Sandoval, owner of Latin American restaurant Toro, you should rest the dough for at least 30 minutes after mixing. "This relaxes the gluten and gives you a tender, flaky pastry," he explains. "You want a dough that's pliable enough to shape and seal but sturdy enough to hold the filling without breaking," he adds, and resting helps achieve this.
You'll also make your life easier shaping your empanadas if you allow the proper resting time. "Resting allows the gluten to relax, making it easier to roll out without shrinking," chef Maricel Gentile tells us. So, if you've experienced working with dough that won't roll out, leaving it to sit after kneading will help avoid that issue. Gentile also notes that dough that hasn't been rested can be less tender when cooked.
Rolling the dough too thin
Once you've finished resting your dough and you're onto the rolling stage, it's easy to get the thickness of the dough wrong. "One common mistake is rolling the dough too thin," says Maricel Gentile of Maricel's Kitchen. "It can lead to a flimsy empanada that tears or leaks," she explains.
If the dough is too thin, it simply won't be sturdy enough to hold onto the fillings. This can lead to major frustration while assembling your empanadas. When you fold the dough around the filling, it will be way too easy to tear it or poke a hole in it. Then, you'll get leaks in the oven and the filling you worked so hard on making delicious will run out.
But you don't want to make the dough overly thick, either. This way it might not cook through properly and your empanadas will be doughy rather than crisp. Raw parts of dough don't taste that great, either. Not everyone agrees on exactly how thick to roll empanada dough, but it's generally between a quarter and an eighth of an inch. You might need to experiment to work out what thickness works for you and your chosen recipe.
Making the filling too wet
When it comes to making the filling, you might think anything goes. You want lots of flavor in there so it may seem like making it saucy is the answer. However, this isn't the best move. Lots of flavor is great, but a wet filling can lead to problems.
"Too much moisture in the filling can seep into the dough, making it soggy or prone to tearing," explains chef Richard Sandoval of Toro. So, what started out as a desire to make your empanadas more flavorful can result in them getting soggy or falling apart. We're not saying that your filling has to be totally dry, just not too wet or runny, as this makes them easier to assemble and more structurally sound after cooking.
But there are ways to work with moister fillings more easily. Milena Pagán, chef at Little Sister, recommends you "chill the filling before shaping empanadas, especially if the filling is saucy." She tells us that "the cold makes the sauce hold together better." This means it won't get the dough soggy or result in tearing. It also means the filling isn't so runny that it's hard to shape your pastries. You need the filling to hold together somewhat since empanadas are free-form.
Using the filling while it's still warm
You probably know that frosting a cake while it's still warm is a mistake to avoid. However, you might not realize that you should also avoid assembling empanadas when the filling is still warm. It can seem like skipping the chilling step for your filling will save time but actually you'll end up making your job much harder.
The reason for this is that a warm filling effectively melts the pastry dough. It loses its structure and becomes too stretchy so it's easy to poke holes in it. And if the filling is still very hot, it can totally disintegrate the dough. So, after going to all the trouble of getting your dough perfect, you can totally ruin it in seconds.
"Warm filling can soften the dough, making it harder to work with and increasing the chance of leaks during cooking," explains Chef Maricel Gentile. "Cooling the filling not only makes the assembly easier but also ensures that the pastry cooks evenly without overbaking or undercooking in spots." It's an easy step to a much more consistent empanada.
But perhaps it's not just the dough you should be chilling. "Additionally, chilling the assembled empanadas for 15 to 20 minutes before baking helps the dough hold its shape better and prevents it from becoming too soft during handling," Gentile adds. Yes, that's more time before you get to eat your empanadas but great ones are worth being patient for.
Adding too much or too little filling to empanadas
It's important to get the perfect amount of filling in your empanadas but it's a subtle art. It's hugely common to either add too much or too little filling to them, both of which can lead to issues. The amount of filling varies depending on the size of the empanada, too. And since there are no fixed sizes for them, you just have to get a feel for how much filling to add at first.
According to Richard Sandoval, it's a tricky balance to get right. "If you underfill, you lose the balance between the pastry and filling," he says. "On the other hand, overfilling can cause the empanada to burst during cooking." Neither of these are good options. You don't want to wind up with disappointingly underfilled empanadas, but you also don't want them to spill all over the place in the oven.
"Underfilling an empanada is sacrilegious to Puerto Ricans," says Marta Rivera Diaz. She recommends using a portion scoop for consistent results. Sandoval and Maricel Gentile both recommend 1 to 2 tablespoons of filling per empanada, depending on its size. Meanwhile, Milena Pagán suggests ¼ cup of filling for a 6-inch empanada.
Shaping empanadas incorrectly
Once you've got the filling in there, it's time to shape and seal your empanadas, but this is an easy place to go wrong. A poorly sealed pastry won't fare too well in the oven. And if you're attempting any fancy sealing techniques, this is another place where you can go wrong.
"The easiest is to fold over and crimp with the tines of a fork," Milena Pagán tells us. But you need to make sure the seal is sound. Our experts all have different techniques — using water or egg wash to help seal the two sides of the dough together or simply pressing down extra firmly.
According to Maricel Gentile, while you can seal empanadas with a fork, you can also "try the traditional repulgue fold, which is a decorative twist along the edge." She notes that "this technique takes some practice, but it's beautiful and functional — it helps to reinforce the seal."
There are also potential shaping shortcuts. "My hack for shaping empanada dough is to use a tortilla press to get the perfectly round shape," says Marta Rivera Diaz. This saves time over rolling it out by hand and gives you a more reliable circular shape.
Skipping the egg wash
While it isn't 100% essential to make delicious empanadas, skipping the egg wash is a mistake. It makes them look more shiny and appetizing. It won't make them taste any better, which is why some people skip this step, but if you're looking to make the best ever empanadas, the details are important.
"For baked empanadas, brushing the pastry with egg wash creates that golden, appetizing color," explains Richard Sandoval of Toro. If you've noticed your favorite bakery empanadas are deep brown and shiny, you're probably looking at a batch that has been properly egg washed. Milena Pagán of Little Sister also uses an egg wash on her empanadas as a finishing touch to make them stand out.
Egg washing empanadas is simple. Once you've shaped them and they're waiting to go into the oven, crack an egg into a small mixing bowl and whisk it. Then, simply brush a thin layer all over the top and sides of the dough with a pastry brush. If you're making vegan or egg-free empanadas, you can use soy milk or your choice of non-dairy milk in place of the egg wash.
Using the same dough for baking and frying
The beauty of empanadas is that they can either be baked or fried. Baking them gives them a classic flaky pastry crust, while frying them makes them crisper and richer, so both have their merits. However, if you're using the exact same dough recipe for baked empanadas as for fried ones, you're making a mistake.
Each of these cooking methods puts unique demands on the dough. And the correct texture for each is different, so you need variation in the dough. Maricel Gentile teaches students to cook both types in her empanada making classes, so she spilled the tea on the differences between the two doughs. "For baked empanadas, the dough includes eggs and butter, creating a rich, flaky texture," she tells us. "For fried empanadas, the dough is lighter, with sparkling water or seltzer adding crispness, and a touch of vinegar or orange juice for flavor balance."
But you might still be wondering which is better. There's no right or wrong answer here, it's all down to preference. "Personally, I love the indulgent crispiness of the fried empanadas, but my husband prefers the lighter, flaky baked ones," Gentile remarks. It can also be down to differences from country to country. For instance, Milena Pagán tells us fried empanadas are traditional in Puerto Rico.
Sticking to the same fillings every time
If you stick with the same fillings every time you make empanadas, you're missing out on the rich variety of options these treats afford you. One of the big differences between empanadas and Cornish pasties is the filling. Traditional Cornish pasties have a very particular minced meat filling, while the beauty of empanadas is that they can contain basically anything. You can even make pepperoni pizza versions.
"Empanadas can be filled with whatever your heart desires," Marta Rivera Diaz tells us. They're hugely versatile — while savory versions are perhaps more common, they're brilliant with sweet fillings too. "Savory options can include slow-cooked meats, shredded chicken with chipotle, or roasted vegetables like poblano peppers with cheese," says Richard Sandoval. "On the sweet side, fillings like guava paste and cream cheese, caramelized plantains, or spiced apples are popular choices," he adds.
Ultimately, the only thing that's holding you back is your imagination. If there's a filling you want to put in an empanada, go for it. Flavors with a Latin American inspiration are common in the U.S. but that's not the only place where empanadas are traditional, so don't let geography confine you.
Not realizing there are regional variations
If you had to guess where empanadas come from, you'd probably assume Latin America — perhaps a particular country. But actually, they likely originated in medieval Spain. They're popular in many Central and South American countries because they were colonized by Spain, but you'll also find traditional versions in parts of Europe. There are many regional variations, all with their own twists.
Where my family is from in Sardinia, there are small pies called sa panadas that belong to the empanada family. My favorite is a vegetarian version filled with eggplant. Chicken tinga molotes are another regional variation and a favorite of Yvette Marquez-Sharpnack of the food blog Muy Bueno. "They are a common street food found in Oaxaca, Puebla, and the Yucatan during Easter and Christmastime," she tells us. She also likes sweet pumpkin empanadas, adding "my grandma was from Chihuahua and pumpkin empanadas are a classic Mexican dessert."
According to Maricel Gentile, her versions are influenced by Filipino and Spanish traditions. "The Filipino empanada often has a slightly sweet dough and fillings like chicken or pork with potatoes, raisins, and carrots," she explains, noting that Spanish versions are more varied. Ultimately, there are all kinds of empanadas to explore. Ignoring this means missing out on the culinary history that's available to you.
Not considering serving empanadas with a sauce
"Don't overlook small details to make your empanadas stand out," advises chef Milena Pagán. One suggestion of hers is to serve them with a dipping sauce. It's a great way to pack extra flavor into your empanadas without making the filling too wet. You can also think of the sauce as a contrast to the filling — for instance, by pairing a spicy filling with a cooling sauce.
If you're not sure where to start, look to some regional sauces for inspiration. Creole mustard from Louisiana provides a spicy contrast to mild fillings, while green goddess sauce might be a nice dip for a veggie empanada. Salsa and guacamole are great dipping sauces for Latin American inspired fillings, while you can't go wrong with a homemade mayonnaise or aioli.
You can also think outside the box. For instance, you might make a Malaysian inspired empanada and serve it with a satay sauce. Or you could make a chocolate sauce to go with a sweet dessert empanada. There are so many sauce options once you start considering it.