Don't Sleep On Oklahoma Barbecue
If you're eagerly awaiting the answer to the hypothetical question implied by the title of this article, we won't keep you in suspense any longer: The real reason you should not sleep on Oklahoma barbecue or indeed on any type of barbecue is that it makes a lousy pillow and you'll wind up with sauce in your hair. Plus, of course, it's a sad waste of an otherwise tasty dish.
Seriously, now, what sets Oklahoma barbecue apart from the umpteen other varieties of regional barbecue available? Cookbook author Rick Bayless should know as he comes from what amounts to Oklahoma barbecue royalty: His family owned an OKC barbecue joint called Hickory House (guess we know what kind of wood they favored) for nearly 40 years. Bayless feels that the state's style of barbecue is often defined in terms of comparing it to other better-known styles and says that it's both saucier and less beef-centric than Texas' (pork is permitted) but lacks the vinegary tang of the Memphis and North Carolina sauces. While we'd never say that any old style of barbecue is clearly superior to another — we tend to favor an "all of the above, thank you!" approach to gastronomy -– by all accounts the barbecue dished up in the Sooner State is something you may want to experience sooner rather than later.
History of Oklahoma barbecue
The very earliest instance of Oklahoma barbecue, or at least barbecue-adjacent meat cooking, may have been that of the meat smoking done by the Plains tribes. Toward the latter part of the 19th century, the Oklahoma Territories received an influx of African-Americans who favored smoking beef and pork over buffalo and deer and also introduced the idea of using some sauce. German immigrants, too, had something to contribute to the emerging Oklahoma barbecue tradition, this being flame-grilled sausages.
In its early days, Oklahoma barbecue -– usually beef -– was the dish of choice at many large gatherings, whether they be for holidays, weddings, or political rallies. Barbecue eateries called pig stands date back to the late 1920s, and by the 1940s the state was producing commercially-sold barbecue sauces. Annual community barbecues have also been popular throughout the years, with some ongoing ones dating back to the 1970s. One barbecue bash that holds a special place in Sooner State history, though, was a one-time event: As a result of losing a bet on the 1996 Oklahoma University – University of Texas football game, future president (and then-Texas governor) George W. Bush hosted a barbecue in Altus, Oklahoma in March 0f 1997. Thousands of people showed up and dined on 1500+ pounds of brisket. The beef itself came from Texas but was prepared by a pair of Oklahoma pit masters from Chickasha's Hickey's Barbecue and Jake's Rib.
How is Oklahoma barbecue made?
Barbecuing meat Oklahoma-style typically involves seasoning it with a dry rub and then smoking it over an open pit for a few hours. The choice of wood will vary –- some swear by mild oak, but others opt for more flavorful woods like sweet hickory or pungent mesquite while still others may mix and match. The choice of meats, too, can be a wide one. Beef brisket and ribs are popular here as Oklahoma is most definitely cattle country (it's one of the top five states for ranching), but pulled pork, too, is part of the pantheon, as are pork ribs, hot links, chicken, turkey, and even bologna. Yes, bologna. This "Oklahoma prime rib" is a state specialty that tastes a lot better than it sounds.
Once the meat is smoked, it's time for the sauce slathering. Oklahoma-style barbecue sauce is fairly similar to the kind made famous by Kansas City. It's typically tomato-based, with the tomato component often being supplied by ketchup. The sauce may also include vinegar, a sweetener such as brown sugar or honey, and seasonings like garlic and Worcestershire sauce in addition to salt and pepper. Some sauces may kick up the heat with chiles, while others tone it down with some fruit, but the overall flavor profile is typically tangy and sweet. Commercially available brands of Oklahoma barbecue sauce include Head Country, Split-T Hickory Sauce, Sweet Spirit, Trader Dave's, and Bob's Big Red Barbeque Sauce.
Typical sides for Oklahoma barbecue
Oklahoma-style barbecue, of course, isn't complete without a full complement of sides. The sides best befitting this style of barbecue are the typical baked beans, coleslaw, and potato salads that accompany so many picnic-style meals. The meat itself can be embellished with additional sauce as well as with raw onions, dill pickles, or chile peppers. Lemonade and iced tea (sweet, as Oklahoma is considered to be part of the south) may accompany the meal, although some prefer coffee, sodas, or beer (Budweiser being the state's favorite). As for the best barbecue dessert, there can be only one: pie, of course. Texas Monthly had high praise, in particular, for the buttermilk pie served up by Stutts House of Barbecue in Tulsa.
If you really want to go the whole hog, though, you'll have to experience Oklahoma barbecue as just one of many courses in the state's official meal (which is one of a kind, as no other state has adopted such a thing). Barbecued pork is one of two mains, along with chicken-fried steak, unless you want to include the sausage with biscuits, which makes for a total of three (as well as a possible clue that this meal is meant to be brunch). The sides include black-eyed peas, corn, cornbread, fried okra, grits (another brunch indicator), and squash, while dessert is pecan pie plus some strawberries to follow. Unfortunately, they left a state-endorsed antacid off the list, so you're on your own there.
Where to get Oklahoma barbecue
The best place to get Oklahoma-style barbecue is in Oklahoma, of course. According to the readers of The Oklahoman, the very best barbecue in the state can be found at The Butcher BBQ Stand in Wellston (population: several). If it's big city barbecue you're after, though, Trip Advisor says Tulsa's top spot is BurnCo Barbeque while Yelpers endorse King's BBQ in OKC. Texas Monthly praises the turkey legs at Tulsa's Big Daddy's All American BBQ along with the pulled pork and hot links at Buffalo's Barbecue in Sperry and the burnt ends and pork ribs at the Broken Arrow Oklahoma Joe's Bar-B-Cue. Meanwhile, Saveur sings the praises of the smoked bologna found at Albert G's and Elmer's BBQ, both in Tulsa.
Although Oklahoma City barbecue may not be as well-known nationwide as the Texas, Kansas City, St. Louis, or Memphis styles, there are a few places outside the state where you can get a taste of these. One of these is the mini-chain Bird Dog BBQ, with three locations in the Colorado Springs area, while another is the aforementioned Oklahoma Joe's, which has outposts in Omaha and Elkhorn, Nebraska. Kansas City, too, once had a mini-chain called Oklahoma Joe's, but it changed its name to Joe's Kansas City Bar-B-Que back in 2014. Over 1000 miles west of the Panhandle State, Harry's BBQ in Lomita, California, also serves up brisket, ribs, and chicken smoked and sauced in the finest Oklahoma style.