How To Pick Out The Perfect Wagyu Steak At The Store

Wagyu beef comes from a type of ancient Japanese cattle that was once favored for its strength and endurance in agricultural applications. Now prized as one of the most tender, tasty, and coveted types of beef in the world, buying some Wagyu from the store is going to cost you a pretty penny. To make sure you get it right, we spoke exclusively with Sheila Patinkin, owner of Vermont Wagyu, located on a 230 year-old farm in Springfield, Vermont.

"Look for local farm-raised, 100% full-blood American Wagyu beef for a sustainably raised, authentic branded beef such as ours at Vermont Wagyu," Patinkin tells Mashed. Differing from pureblood beef, which has at least 93.75% Japanese Wagyu DNA, full-blood Wagyu has not been crossbred. Today, only four cattle breeds are considered to be full-blood Wagyu in Japan: Japanese Black (which is what we find the most of in the States), Japanese Brown (also known as Red Wagyu), Japanese Polled, and Japanese Shorthorn. These genetics are among the reasons why Wagyu beef is so expensive — along with the magnificent marbling that adds unmatched flavor and juiciness. This marbling is particularly evident in some cuts that come from the chuck, rib, and loin.

Aside from the full-blood label, one tangible thing we can look for is how much marbling the Wagyu has. "If you want to take quality and flavor a step further, taste is all about the degree of marbling — with more being better," Sheila Patinkin explains, adding, "Remember that marbling refers to the white, fine streaks [of fat] within the ribeye muscle — so be sure to look for beef with prominent examples of that."

If you've not yet had a steak with a significant amount of marbling, it's an easy sell: More marbling equals more flavor. This is why marbling is so important in high quality meat. As the internal temperature rises and the fat begins to melt, it infuses the meat with juices. This doesn't just add flavor and keep it nice and moist. Because fat is so much more supple than muscle, it also makes the steak more tender.

As for the specific cuts you should select when shopping for Wagyu, Sheila Patinkin says, "Particularly well-marbled cuts of Wagyu include the ribeye, New York Strip, Denver, and the flat iron." Although you may find them at some Walmart stores, you likely won't find Wagyu steaks at your local supermarket. She recommends popping by the butcher, as you can typically have steaks cut to your liking.

Of course, you want to ensure that the meat has a pleasant rosy color — absolutely no graying, oxidation, torn packages, or freezer burn. When dealing with American Wagyu, 1.5-inch thick steaks are common. "Japanese Wagyu is typically cut very thin, as the meat is very costly per pound, given the distance it travels and the price per ounce," explains Patinkin. A cut between ½ inch and ¾ inch is standard.

Both American and Japanese Wagyu are given a grade to indicate quality. Japanese Wagyu can get an A, B, or C grading, with each having levels 1 to 5. A5 is considered the highest quality Japanese Wagyu you can get. "American Wagyu should be at least Prime," says Patinkin, referencing the highest grade of beef currently in the American system. She also tells us that a national breed registry — which will work to authenticate American Wagyu — is set to launch this year. "When the American Wagyu Association launches its Authentic Wagyu verified beef program this spring, look for the Authentic Wagyu label sporting the USDA shield of approval." Only the highest quality Prime will make the cut.

If you're looking for the real deal Wagyu experience at home, look out for misleading labels, and ask questions when things aren't totally clear. "USDA labeling allows any Wagyu beef that qualifies as 46% Wagyu by pedigree to be labeled Wagyu," explains Sheila Patinkin. "If you see a piece of meat labeled as 'Wagyu,' ask if it's from the U.S., and if it is, whether it is from a crossbred animal (e.g., Wagyu + Angus)." Crossbred cattle are genetically predisposed to have less marbling than Wagyu, and in that regard, the difference between full-blood and pureblood is often visible. Nevertheless, just because it has more of the "right" DNA doesn't mean you will like the way it tastes more. 

In the same way wild salmon may look and taste somewhat unfamiliar when you're used to the farmed variety, you may find that Japanese Wagyu is so different from what Western taste buds are use to that you prefer the American version. Patinkin says the cow's diet has some influence over that. "I prefer the texture of American Wagyu over Japanese, as it typically has been grass pastured at birth but finished with grain. It is that corn finish in the American Wagyu that gives it that 'Wow!' eating experience, along with Wagyu genetics."