How To Correctly Store Fresh Morels

For some, the surest signs of spring are crocuses and strawberries. But others — earthier types, perhaps — await the appearance of morel mushrooms at the farmers' market, or in the woods. Seasonal, umami-rich, and highly delicious, this wild mushroom is a favorite of chefs and foragers and makes a perfect complement to meats, pastas, and other hearty preparations. Like other mushrooms, it's also a bit delicate, and needs to be stored correctly if you're not planning on cooking right away.

Let's start with the way morels should be stored: temporarily. We'll get into longer-term options below, but with a shroom this precious, it's worth eating it fresh. In the fridge, morels like a little bit of moisture and some air circulation — so don't keep them in an airtight container. Instead, place them in a paper or cloth bag with a moistened paper towel in it, and store them in the crisper drawer for up to three days.

Rather than wash mushrooms when you bring them home, it's a good idea to wait till you're ready to use them. (Otherwise, they could absorb too much moisture, speeding up spoilage.) Start by gently wiping the mushrooms with a clean towel, then rinse them under cool water; if they're especially dirty, swish them around in a bowl of water. Then pat them dry with a towel. But say you haven't just splurged on a handful of morels (here's why they're so expensive, by the way). Instead, you've gone out foraging — and come back with a real haul. That's where freezing or drying come in.

Here, you'll want to clean your mushrooms first. Like some vegetables, morels need to be cooked before freezing, by steaming or blanching to prevent bitterness. If you steam them, add a squeeze of lemon to the water and steam for five minutes before draining and drying, then freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet. When they're frozen solid, you can gather them all into a resealable plastic bag, grabbing a handful from the freezer whenever you need it.

Likewise, with blanching — i.e., boiling them briefly — add a bit of lemon juice to a pot of water and bring it to a boil. Add the mushrooms and boil for about three minutes before draining and freezing as described above.

You can also dry them in a dehydrator — or a very low oven. Set it around 140 degrees and spread the mushrooms in a single layer on a baking sheet — to speed the drying process, you can cut them in half lengthwise. Place them in the oven for six to eight hours, until they're crisp enough to break, and then cool completely before storing. You can also do this the old-fashioned way: String your morels up with culinary twine or (unflavored) dental floss and hang them to air-dry for about three days. In all cases, once they're dried, the mushrooms can be placed in a jar, zipper bag, or other resealable container; stored in the freezer, they should keep for about a year.