Sonic Swings And Misses With Loaded Queso Fries

It's hard to improve on the french fry. Fluffy, crispy, potatoey goodness deliberately designed for dipping, the french fry is nearly perfect, but that doesn't mean improvement is impossible. Enter Sonic's new Loaded Queso Fries. That's right, Sonic took the french fry and added the one thing this staple of sides was missing: melted cheese. Available exclusively on the Sonic app now through September 1 before going nationwide starting on Labor Day, Sonic is offering not one but two new fry options with their Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries and the Southwest Loaded Queso Fries.

Not all good things can last forever, though, and these fries are no exception. They're available for a limited time while supplies last. To find out if Sonic really did take french fries to the next level, I headed down to my local drive-thru to try both varieties of Loaded Fries. Read on to find out if the Bacon Ranch or Southwest style is worth adding to your next order.

The new Loaded Queso Fries are only available in a medium size for $3.99, which makes breaking down the nutritional information easy. First up, the Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries. Billed by Sonic as, "Hot and crispy Groovy Fries covered in melty shredded cheddar cheese, warm, velvety queso, crisp bacon, and a drizzle of creamy ranch," these fries are indulgent. A single order contains 39 grams of fat, 12 grams of protein, and 1530 milligrams of sodium.

Not to be outdone are the Southwest Loaded Queso Fries. Sonic describes these fries as, "Hot and crispy Groovy Fries covered in melty shredded cheddar cheese, warm, velvety queso, diced onions, ripe tomatoes, a drizzle of creamy southwest sauce and topped with sliced jalapeños." Nutritionally, these fries are similar to their counterparts at 38 grams of fat, 9 grams of protein, and 1570 milligrams of sodium.

This isn't the first time Sonic has smothered fries. Sonic's Chili Cheese Groovy Fries contain 35 grams of fat, 12 grams of protein, and 1430 grams of sodium, so all in all, the three stack up pretty evenly, though the Loaded Queso options are higher in sodium.

The Loaded Queso Fries come in a hot dog boat accompanied by a fork because they're understandably messy. The container also likely accounts for a medium being the only available size, which is fine by me. The portion is sufficient as a side, but if you're looking to make Loaded Queso Fries your entire meal, you may want to reconsider.

The Bacon Ranch fries are hardly smothered in toppings. Pockets of melted cheddar here and there occasionally overlap with similar queso hotbeds, but it is not hard to find a few naked fries in the bunch. The bacon is likewise dispersed, though it often ends up at the bottom of the dish due to a lack of a cheesy place to get stuck.

The first bite is less about evaluating the dish and more about adjusting to how salty Sonic's Groovy Fries are. They're undeniably crispy, but they give McDonald's fries a run for their money in straight saltiness. Paired with the bacon and queso, this entire dish should come with a glass of water. And the ranch? I hardly noticed it was there most of the time. Maybe it gets lost in the queso or maybe there simply isn't enough for it to make an impact on the overall flavor.

On the whole, the Bacon Ranch Loaded Queso Fries are just okay. Unless you're dying for bacon and a side dish that will leave you parched, there's no need to rush out the door for these fries.

While a lot of the same complaints I have regarding the salt level carry over to the Southwest Loaded Queso Fries, at least this dish has some personality. The pickled jalapeños offer a great level of spice and an acidity that plays well off the creamy queso. Meanwhile, the chopped onions and diced tomato bring some much-needed freshness. The queso can shine a bit more here than when paid with bacon and ranch. These fries taste like potato-based nachos, whereas the Bacon Ranch version is less than the sum of its parts.

The Southwest fries are definitely a fork-only experience, if only because the other toppings need a ride when they don't stick to the cheese. This version of the Loaded Queso Fries was also a bit more cheese-covered in my experience, leaving me with fewer crispy fries but more toppings, which was a welcome exchange. These are a step up from the Bacon Ranch version, but only if you're craving a vaguely Mexican taste along with your hot dog or cheeseburger.

Overall, Sonic's Loaded Queso Fries are nothing special. They'll only be around for a limited time so if you happen to find yourself at a Sonic, go ahead and give them a try, but don't feel bad if you miss these fries entirely.

Sonic reached out to Mashed to announce the release of the Loaded Queso Fries. The restaurant sent me a $20 gift card, which I used to order the fries at my local Sonic location. The restaurant staff were unaware of the review when preparing my food. The fries were evaluated on appearance, taste, and accuracy relative to their menu description. Sonic did not directly compensate Mashed for this review.