Why Chef Art Smith Makes His Coleslaw With Vegan Mayo

Coleslaw can sometimes get a bad rap because of the poorly made variations out there — utterly flavorless and drowning in mayonnaise. However, there's a reason this humble side pops up as an accompaniment to countless dishes and atop burgers and sandwiches. When done well, it provides the perfect creamy, slightly crunchy contrast to everything from fried foods to BBQ. There's one thing you won't ever find chef Art Smith putting in his coleslaw during the summer season, though — the classic mayonnaise that you might have assumed was practically a necessity for making the versatile dish.

"When summer rolls around, I like to stay away from dairy, including mayo. Instead, I recommend trying vegan mayonnaise or even a miso-tahini dressing," explains Smith, executive chef at Reunion. "These alternatives are delicious and don't need to be kept cold, which is perfect for those warm summer days." While most commercial mayos don't actually include dairy, it's the eggs that make this condiment a questionable one to keep unrefrigerated on a hot summer day. The rule of thumb is that you shouldn't leave mayo out at room temperature for more than two hours,​​ so switching to a vegan mayo, as per Smith's recommendation, should give you a bit more flexibility if you're serving up coleslaw for a gathering. As an added bonus, if you keep things simple and don't add too many mix-ins, you should have at least one gluten-free, dairy-free, egg-free offering for any guests with special dietary restrictions.

Vegan mayonnaise and regular mayonnaise are very similar, with both typically containing oil, lemon juice or vinegar, a bit of seasoning, and sometimes some mustard. Egg yolks and mustard both serve as emulsifiers that help bind everything in a mayonnaise together, so the latter will often pop up in vegan mayos that lack the traditional egg yolk emulsifying agent. However, once you have a basic vegan mayo to work with, it's all about taste — and there are many ways to add more flavor to your coleslaw while still keeping it vegan. As Art Smith advises, "The key is to ensure your dressing is balanced — a little tang, a hint of sweetness, and just the right amount of seasoning to make your coleslaw sing."

If you prefer to make your own mayonnaise, you can replace the egg yolk in your favorite recipe with soy milk for an easy vegan option. Alternatively, if you want to keep things soy-free as well, you can use aquafaba, the liquid remaining in a can of chickpeas. More interested in convenience but unwilling to sacrifice flavor? You can easily add some flair to store-bought vegan mayo by incorporating a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, some chili powder or cayenne for a bit of heat, a vegan sweetener like agave, or whatever flavor notes you think would complement what you're serving the mayo with.